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◆ Shochu 101

Shochu (pronounced show-chew) is written 焼酎 in Japanese kanji characters.

The 焼 character means “to burn” and 酎 “to concentrate”. Therefore, the name shochu implies a distilled spirit that has been “concentrated by fire”. In comparison, sake is fermented with rice, with more common parallels to wine making than to spirit production.

 

The Name 'Shochu' In Japan, there are two legal classifications of shochu.

Single Pot-Distilled Shochu (Authentic Shochu) is a spirit made by single distillation, the traditional method by which shochu was originally made in small batches by family-owned

producers before liquor conglomerates started producing more 'contemporary' and cost-efficient alternatives to the authentic products. Previously, this category was known as

the 'Single Pot-Distilled Shochu (Authentic Shochu)' group.

 

White Liquor is mass-produced, diluted pure ethyl alcohol obtained by continuous distillation

of polysaccharidic materials such as molasses and is often dubbed 'Japanese vodka' due to its

more neutral flavors. This category used to be known as the 'Continuous Distilled' group.

Additionally, there are multi-grade blends which the shochu industry calls Konwa (混和, meaning 'blended together'). These products are also mass-produced and still classified in the White Liquor group, however they somewhat resemble the Single Pot-Distilled Authentic Shochu as a small amount of it is in fact added to the White Liquor.

Of these categories, it is only the Single Pot-Distilled Authentic Shochu that would be comparable to a pot-distilled malt whisky against grain whisky, which is distilled continuously in a patent still. Single Pot-Distilled Authentic Shochu and malt whisky both retain distinct flavors and aromas characteristic of the raw materials due to single distillation. Single Pot-Distilled Authentic Shochu, however, is particularly unique because of these two notable differences from other spirits: 1) 'Parallel Dual Fermentation' triggered by Japan's unique microbe called Koji Kin; 2) colorful yet mild flavors that can be enjoyed without long-term aging.

 

This article is designed to introduce and enhance the enjoyment of the Single Pot-Distilled

Authentic Shochu.

 

In May 2012, Motohisa Furukawa, then Minister of State for National Policy, launched

the “ENJOY JAPANESE KOKUSHU” project. This government-backed initiative aims to

increase the global visibility of sake and shochu, Japan's distinctive “national alcoholic drinks”

or kokushu, and to promote these exports. Under this project, the National Policy Unit of the

Cabinet Secretariat has compiled related policy measures of “KOKUSHU Export Promotion

Program” by the effort of the relevant ministries, government agencies and industry groups

altogether. (JETRO January 2013,Contributed article)

 

 

 

Recent Shochu Boom in Japan

 

In 2003, the overall (i.e. all categories) shochu consumption surpassed that of sake for the first

time in 53 years. In the following year, the consumption of Single Pot-Distilled Shochu exceeded

that of White Liquor, which is used primarily for mixing and infusion purposes. It has been said

that this most recent shochu boom was created principally by a rapid surge in the popularity of

Single Pot-Distilled Shochu.

The factors explaining this trend include the following:

 

- About 400 shochu distilleries (plus 100 additional sake breweries that also distill shochu) across

Japan, the majority of which are small family businesses, produce several thousand brands, offering drinkers a wide variety of characteristics reflecting the ingredients, the processes as well as the distiller's philosophy

 

- Continuous efforts by the ambitious distillers to innovate the production methods and packaging have paid off, triggering the interests of highly discriminating, cosmopolitan consumers, especially young women

 

- Some of these distilleries operate within their own regional boundaries, therefore finding such rare shochus is like treasure hunting.

Some of these 'cult' shochus are extremely hard to find. When you are lucky enough to find them, a price tag of around US$350 a bottle or more may await you!

 

 

 

500-plus Years of History

 

 

The origin of shochu is thought to be China and South East Asia in the 13th or 14th Century. There are several theories on how shochu was introduced to Japan. The South Route theory suggests that shochu reached Japan from Thailand through the Ryukyu Islands (Okinawa). According to the

North Route theory, shochu came from China via the Korean Peninsula, Iki Islands and onwards, arriving in north Kyushu.

Another theory (the South China Sea theory) holds that shochu came directly from China.

It is most likely that shochu production in Japan began around the 15th century, triggered by the introduction of distillation methods from Thailand. By the 16th Century, shochu is believed to have already become part of people's everyday life. Joshua Alvarez, a Portuguese sailor who visited Kagoshima in 1546, later recorded in his book that the Japanese drank “orraquas from rice”, which is most likely to have been a rice shochu.

Also, an inscription - or rather, graffiti - on a piece of wooden plank found at the Koriyama Hachiman shrine in Kagoshima - is thought to be the oldest existing direct reference to shochu in Japan. There, two carpenters working on the shrine in 1559 wrote, “The high priest was so stingy he never

once gave us shochu to drink. What a nuisance!”

In these early days, the mainstream variant was rice shochu. However, rice was very precious as

it was sent annually in tribute to the Tokugawa Shogunate. Distillers, therefore, painstakingly tried to produce shochu from alternate raw materials, including sweet potato and barley. By the Edo Period (1603 to 1867), these derivatives had created a basis for the foundation of the modern shochus as we see them today.

 

 

 

 

◆ The 4 Key Elements that Define an Authentic Shochu

Authentic Shochu comes in a variety of styles, just like sake and wines. Understanding the factors that influence the characteristics of shochu will be helpful even when you face hundreds of them on a drinks list. It will also help you understand the depth of the world of premium shochus.

 

Raw Material

Aging Method

Koji Microbe

Distillation Method

 

Below are the four key elements of shochu making:

 

◆1st Element - Raw Material

In shochu making, one or a combination of more than 30 different raw materials can be used.

Each brings a distinctive taste to the end product. Of these raw material options, the most common ones are barley, rice, and sweet potato, while other raw materials such as brown sugar, buckwheat and sesame seeds are also used.

 

Barley (Mugi): Usually the Nijo variety of barley is used for a light and easy-to-drink shochu.

Rice (Kome): Rice brings out rich flavors, and presents a soft palate as well as distinctive sweetness and fragrance. So-called rice shochus are the ones in which rice is used as the key raw material. The Kuma GI (Hitoyoshi in Kumamoto) is particularly famous for its all-rice shochus.

The rice is also used typically as malted rice, on which koji microbes (see below) have been cultured, in the earlier part of shochu making, regardless of what the primary raw material may be (that can be barley or sweet potato).

Sweet Potato (Imo): Sweet Potatoes provide a distinctive, confectionary-like sweetness and rich flavors in the shochu.

Dates (De-tsu): Sweet fruits that originated in the Middle East and the only fruits the Japanese law permits for use in shochu making.

 

 

◆2nd Element - Koji Microbe, Japan's Traditional Gastronomic Culture

One of the most unique features in both sake and shochu making is the use of a unique microbe called Koji (Aspergillus mold) in addition to yeast. Most fermented and other distilled beverages in the world only use yeast.

Koji, in fact, is a very common microbe that connects and reflects the Japanese gastronomic culture. The production of many processed foods in Japan - such as miso (soybean paste), and tsukemono (pickled vegetables) - is started with the koji. You would find it interesting to know that blue cheese is also made with a similar microbe.

In shochu making, there are three main types of koji in use, and each of them brings out different characters:

 

Black Koji: Traditional koji with a long history. It gives the shochu a full body and brings out

distinctively rich flavors.

White Koji: Standard koji that is used widely. It brings out lighter, gentler and crisper flavors.

Yellow Koji: Another traditional koji primarily used for sake production. It has been long avoided in shochu production due to its susceptibility to heat, hence requiring a rather complicated heat management process. However, in recent years, yellow koji has been slowly adopted to give some shochus special, unique characteristics.

 

 

◆3rd Element - Distillation Method

By law, Authentic Shochu is made by single pot distillation, another aspect that makes this type of shochu unique among the other distilled spirits globally.

There are two distillation methods: normal pressure and reduced pressure. Furthermore, the pot stills come in different materials (e.g., wood, stainless steel, tin, etc.), sizes and shapes, all reflecting distillers' philosophy and characters and affecting the quality and style of the finished shochu.

It is usually the case that the extracts from the beginning and the ending of the distillation process are removed to avoid edginess in the shochu.

 

Normal Pressure Distillation: The pressure inside the pot still is uncontrolled, hence 'normal' pressure. While the normal boiling temperature for ethyl alcohol is 78C degrees (172F degrees), the boiling of the moromi mash occurs around 85 - 90C degrees or 185 - 194F degrees. The resultant shochu normally exhibits stronger, bolder flavors with slightly burnt notes of the raw materials.

 

Reduced Pressure Distillation: This method takes advantage of reduced pressure (near vacuum) in the pot still bringing the boiling temperature down to about 40 - 60C degrees (104 -140F degrees). Consequently, it brings out rounder and lighter flavors with a soft palate impact. This 'new' method, introduced in the mid 1970s, revolutionized the shochu industry, permitting it to target a wider market.

 

 

◆4th Element - Aging Method

There are three principal ways of aging shochu. Some shochus are aged in oak and old sherry barrels, like Scotch and whiskies. Another means of aging is using ceramic/earthen pots. The third method of aging is in tanks. Aging in these different materials gives each shochu rounder and deeper flavor characters.

 

Barrel Aging: Oak barrels or imported barrels that once contained sherry are used. The barrels add unique scents as well as a beautiful amber color.

Ceramic/Earthen Pot Aging: Earthen pots have numerous microscopic pores, which allow the pot to 'breathe'. With the effects of far infrared and the respiration by the pot, aging softens the flavor while adding no color.

Tank Aging: Aging in stainless steel or porcelain enamel tanks has minimal effects on the shochu, preserving the characteristics of the raw material used in making the shochu.

 

 

 

Shochu and Possible Health Effects

 

Here's another reason to adopt shochu - various scientific research suggests that drinking Authentic Shochu helps maintain a healthy heart and arteries.

For example, a 1998 research project by Hiroyuki Sumi MD. PhD. of Kurashiki Art and Science University shows that Authentic Shochu activates several enzymes that help dissolve thrombus. This and other health claims of Authentic Shochu - such as suppressing cardiac infarction and arteriosclerosis, uplifting mood, alleviating stress and prevention of obesity - have been featured in various Japanese TV programs, including the highly popular Omoikkiri TV on the NTV Network in 2000.

The graph below illustrates the changes in the level of active blood plasmin, which is believed to be effective in dissolving thrombus, after drinking each of the six different alcoholic beverages.

 

 

 

Fermentation in a Subtropical Climate

 

In southern Kyushu, where the precipitation is high and the climate subtropical, it is difficult to make sake following the kan-jikomi style. Kan-jikomi is how sake is brewed in an extremely cold climate in the middle of a winter and is possible only in areas north of Kita Kyushu (northern Kyushu) and the regions in central Honshu Island facing the Sea of Japan, as well as the areas such as the Greater Tohoku region in northern Honshu. However, in a subtropical climate like southern Kyushu, it has been a huge risk to make sake using expensive rice since the chance of spoilage is very high. Later in this book, we will explain how shochu is made with the special species of koji microbes which can withstand the risk of spoilage.

 

 

What in the World is Parallel Dual Fermentation?

 

The raw materials used in making wine and beer contain sugar. Therefore, the necessary fermentation can occur only by yeast, which converts these sugars into alcohol.

For whiskies and shochus, on the other hand, a process is necessary to break down the starch of the raw materials into glucose because yeast alone cannot start fermentation where there is little or no sugar. This is called 'saccharification'. Only after this process can yeast be added to kick off the fermentation.

While saccharification in whisky is triggered by adding maltose, sake and shochu use koji, which converts the starch in the raw material rice, barley, sweet potato, etc. to sugar. The uniqueness of it all, however, is that with koji and yeast together, the saccarification of starch and alcoholic fermentation happen concurrently in the same batch. This is called 'Parallel Dual Fermentation'.

To our benefit, the amazing koji produces a considerable amount of citric acid which prevent the chance of spoilage in the moromi (mash) and also raw materials give a shochu unique flavors. This is one of the reasons why shochu can be set apart from other global spirits.

 

 

Sake 101

 

In Japanese, the word “sake” is used primarily to refer to alcoholic drinks in general. If you ask for sake in Japanese, then the response will almost certainly be, “Do you mean nihonshu?” This is because alcoholic drinks, whether beer, shochu or whisky, are all referred to as sake in Japanese. Tokyo is without doubt one of the leading gourmet cities in the world. In this article, I will introduce establishments from the Tokyo Station environs to the area centered on Ginza and Shinbashi where sake, shochu and awamori can be enjoyed, and I will describe how they should be drunk.

 

1.           How to Enjoy Sake

Whether sushi, tempura, noodles, pork cutlets or yakitori (grilled chicken), there are Japanese restaurants specializing in each category of Japanese cuisine. In countries outside Japan, when speaking of Japanese restaurants, many places serve tempura, yakitori and sushi all in the same restaurant. In Tokyo, you should first decide what you are going to eat, and then select the respective restaurant. We will now learn a little basic knowledge about how to match sake to various dishes such as sushi, tempura and yakiroti.

Sake’s 3 basic ingredients are extremely simple: rice, rice malt, and yeast. Depending on the sake a 4th ingredient, brewing alcohol, may be added. As the addition of preservatives, colorings, antioxidants, and the like, is not allowed by law, the basic ingredients are very simple.

Here the terms become a little specialized, but people who have heard of the terms Dai-ginjo and Ginjo can be said to be quite big fans of sake. Use of these terms depends on the rice polishing ratio: Dai-ginjo is 50% or less (50% or more of the rice has been polished and discarded) and Ginjo is 60% or less (40% or more of the rice has been polished and discarded). If the sake is labeled Junmai, then remember that no brewing alcohol has been added. Junmai Ginjo is therefore a sake with no brewing alcohol added and a rice polishing ration of 60% or less. As the quantity of sake brewed is less from rice grains polished until small like beads, it is expensive. With its fragrant aroma, Junmai Ginjo served as a cold sake goes well with sashimi and appetizers. Junmai-sake with its firm acidity complements sushi.

 

Sake brands can also be categorized according to their suitability to temperature ranges. In Japan, sake is mainly drunk cold. Dai-ginjo and Ginjo are mostly drunk as cold sakes, but sakes displaying Special Junmai, Kimoto or Yamahai can be enjoyed at room temperature or as warm sake (but not as hot sake). For some Dai-ginjo sakes the aroma is more fragrant if it is served at around 12-14 degrees rather than around 7 degrees. As with wine, the temperature range is chosen depending on the weather at the time, the drinker’s mood and physical condition and the characteristic of the sake brand. Foods with a strong flavor, like yakitori and pork cutlets, go well with Kimoto Tokubetsu Junmai.

Furthermore, there are various types of sake: sparkling (there are 2 types of sparkling sake: it is either fermented in the bottle type or carbon dioxide is added), nigori (unfiltered or roughly filtered), Namazake (Namanama which does not undergo the thermal pasteurization process usually carried out twice, and Namazume and Namacho  which undergo the thermal pasteurization process only once), and Genshu (water is not added when bottled). Namanama (unpasteurized) sake is extremely difficult to handle, and needs to be managed in the same way as fresh milk. It is worth giving it a try if you find it in a bar. There are also Namazakes with fruity aromas of green apple, peach or pineapple. I like to have a sparkling sake or non-heat-treated Namanama as an aperitif.

 

In terms of taste, the 4 types soushu, kunshu, junshu and jukushu serve as a reference. Sake can be selected in the same way as wine, choosing a full-bodied junshu or a light and easy-to-drink sake, for example.

The sake can be judged to some degree from its Sake Meter Value (SMV or nihonshu-do) and acidity. It is sometimes indicated on the back label, so if you like dry sake then you should choose +3 or higher. The higher the positive SMV number the drier the sake is, and the lower the negative number is, the sweeter the sake. However, the sensory evaluation varies according to the balance with the acidity, and there are sakes that taste dry even with a low positive SMV number if the acidity is high.

 

In the izakaya and sashimi izakaya business categories, the drinks’ menu has a wider selection than in a specialty bar. It’s possible to choose whatever you like from wine, shochu and sake. However, there are numerous places pushing low prices as the selling point, so if you are expecting fine wine and fine sake, there are many izakayas where there will be few examples of these listed on the menu. Unfortunately, BYO is rare in Japan. If you want to bring your own sake, you should check in advance. Among izakayas, there are establishments known as sake izakayas which have a wide selection of fine sakes.

 

What is Shochu ?

 

2.           How to Enjoy Shochu and Awamori

The alcoholic drinks known as chuhai and sour are very popular in Japan, and can even be obtained at convenience stores. Chuhai and sour are continuously distilled shochu that have been carbonated, and fruit juice, flavoring and acidulants may be added.

In contrast to these, drinks known as authentic shochu and single distilled shochu are single pot still distilled spirits known as Traditional Style Shochu. With a history of almost 500 years, there are many shochus that reflect the fragrance of the basic ingredients such as barley, sweet potato, rice and brown sugar, and many use rice malt and barley malt as secondary ingredients. Awamori is brewed from rice malt alone and then distilled in a single pot still. Both authentic shochu and awamori are made from extremely simple basic ingredients, as preservatives, sugar, acidulants and anti-oxidants cannot be added by law.

While they are distilled liquors, in Japan they are served with meals. It is rare around the world for distilled liquors to be enjoyed at the same time as the meal, rather than before or after the meal. Let’s retain this basic knowledge of authentic shochu.

・Selecting According to Basic Ingredients

With authentic shochu the flavor derived from the basic ingredients can be enjoyed. Some barley shochus have an aroma like fragrant barley derived from the grains. Sweet potato shochus are very fruity and some have the scent of citrus like a baked sweet potato or tangerines. Rice shochu is simple, but some have a sweetness derived from the malt and a Ginjo scent can be smelled. Aside from these, there are various basic ingredients such as brown sugar, sesame and chestnuts, and the fragrance and taste derived from the basic ingredients can be savored. The respective shochus have varieties that are matured for a long time. Those stored in oak barrels have a flavor similar to whisky while those stored in a jar have a mature taste from the basic ingredients that can be enjoyed as is.

・Serve with Mixers

　Usually, shochu is bottled with an alcohol content of 25% or 20%. It is lower than spirits like whisky and vodka at around 40%, and is high compared to brewed beverages like wine and sake which are around 12% to 16%. However, the pleasure of shochu and awamori is to try them mixed with cold or warm water.

　If mixed 50:50 with mineral water shochu has an alcohol content of around 12%, mixed 60:40 it is around 15%. When mixing with warm water, I suggest mixing with warm water at around 70 degrees C, not with hot water. A light sense and fragrance of alcohol can be enjoyed at this temperature. Initially, enjoy it like beer, carbonated and with low alcohol content, mix with water for the second glass, gradually making it more concentrated, until finally you can drink it on the rocks. If the meal is heavy, a strong shochu is recommended, and if it is to accompany sashimi or sushi a light shochu is recommended.

・Adding Garnishes

　The drink can be garnished by adding sliced lemon or cucumber. It can also be served like a cocktail with citrus fruits such as orange peel and grapefruit juice. Instead of water, it is good to try jasmine tea or green tea.

・”Bottle Keep”

　When you find a shochu or awamori you like, you can do “bottle keep”. Even if you can’t finish the bottle, it’s not a problem. There are Izakayas where the Izakaya staff will put a name tag over the mouth of the bottle and keep it for you. If the same bottles are lined up on a shelf when you take a look in a Izakaya or restaurant and something is written on the bottle, or a tag is hanging from the bottle, then bottle keep is possible at that Izakaya or restaurant.

 

KANPAI !!